A Bite Too Big...Or Two for One?

Day 25  Herrerias to Triacastela via O’Cebreiro

Miles today:  19.4

Elevation gain:  2951’

Descent:  2917’

Walking miles:  306.7

Total Camino miles:  421.2

Wherever you go, go with all your heart! – Confucius

Concern began at breakfast time. Breakfast is not available until a starting time of 8 am, which means a late start for walking...we prefer a 7 am or 7:30 am breakfast at the latest. But we have no other option since the two attempts at a “picnic” breakfast have proven to be both lacking and unsatisfactory. 

We are ready for breakfast when the door is unlocked at 8 am. But we are the only ones eating for some time. Where is everyone else? Why is no one else eager to get walking? We soon learn why. 

All the other pilgrims are walking from Herrerías to O’Cebreiro today, a distance of only 6 miles BUT with an elevation gain of over 2000’. That is how the main guidebook is set up. Each day is a “stage”. Today’s stage is just 6 miles because of the difficulty. But we are not scheduled that way. We have scheduled ourselves to go from Herrerias to Triacastela—two stages according to the guidebook—two days walking for the average peregrino.

It looks like we may have bitten off more than we can chew! After a fast breakfast we head out the door by 8:40. Not raining this morning and we are not wearing rain pants...a good start! The first mile is on a paved country road. Quickly we leave the road and go onto a narrow and steep trail filled with horse dung and horse urine. It is muddy and rocky with many boulders. It does follow a stream and along the trail are mosses and ferns. Gorgeous but smelly and slippery. It is 40 degrees and dead still. The trail has been torn up by the horses combined with the recent rains and snows. Slow going!

I have moved ahead of Blaze and Chum and see no other Pilgrims. The trail climbs and climbs and I begin to heat up. Off comes the gloves and the rain jacket, thanks to the heat of the climbing as well as slowly clearing skies. Within a short period I have gained 1150’ of elevation. There is more ahead. Upward.

The snow covered hills are getting closer. Soon I will be walking in the snow.

I realize that I have seen no Camino markers—yellow painted arrows or scallop shell signs—for over two miles. I stop for a technology check. My GPS app on my phone confirms I am on the correct path. I continue up, now above most of the trees, the hillsides are mostly farm fields, along with grazing cattle. The trail is now muddy on and off with some drier and rockier sections. I reach the tiny village of Latina de Castillo where I stop and wait for Blaze and Chum. They arrive and we all enjoy a coffee con leche.

We continue up. More mud and then we are into the snow level. Shortly before O’Cebreiro the path abruptly changes from rocks and mud and becomes a wonderful wide path of recently laid gravel. We have entered Galicia. They are certainly improving the Camino in this area. The going is now much easier. We are briefly in the clouds.

Finally after gaining 2076’ and at an elevation of 4272’, we reach O’Cebreiro and make a short stop at the Monastery of Samos. It is almost noon and we still have 13 miles to walk. It could be a very long day.

We leave O’Cebreiro on a new green route (more scenic) not listed in the guidebook.  Climbing on a wide path through 2-3 inches of wet snow, we reach 4528’ elevation. We start downhill and find a trailside lunch stop at about 8 miles next to an old stone church. Chickens are eager to share our lunches. 

We move onward, up and down, eventually leaving the day old snow behind at about 14 miles. At Fonfria we make a coffee and Coke stop. Once we leave Fonfria, the path begins downhill in earnest. For the next 5 miles it is almost constant downhill, but on a very good path. We have reached the warmer side of the mountain. Everything is greener, a more intense green, and the weather is much warmer. The last mile into Triacastela is on a muddy dung filled path, just like the early part of the day. 

It is 5 pm which we reach our accommodation. Our latest arrival time so far. We have completed 19.4 miles with 2951’ up and 2917’ down...almost exactly the same! As hikers say, on the average it was almost level. It certainly did not feel that way. It was our toughest day yet. Two days in one. Or was it too big a bite to chew?

My wife Judy and Blaze’s wife Eileen have now arrived in Sarria. Tomorrow the 3 of us walk to Sarria and we all five walk to Santiago for our next phase of this adventure. Wherever Judy goes she brings the sunshine, so we expect much improved weather. 

Blaze, Chum, and I are looking forward to not wearing rain gear every day!