Alone...With Ferns and Flowers

Day 24  Villafranca to Herrerías

Miles today:  14.2

Elevation gain:  1895’

Descent:  1441’

Total walking miles:  287.3

Total Camino miles:  401.8

I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.

   —Susan Sontag

Our walk begins in rain jackets and rain pants. It is a bit warmer this morning at the start with 43 degrees. It is only 10 minutes until the rain began to fall lightly. We pass thru the old town of Villafranca and cross the Burbia River.  Immediately we turn right onto the “green route” which is the guidebook designation for a scenic route. Within feet it grows very steep, perhaps the steepest climb of the Camino thus far. 

The climb is steady for 1/2 mile, ascending over 550’ vertical feet. The remote trail is lined with ferns, and flowers, and flowering shrubs. The view overlooking Villafranca below is magnificent. Then the trail levels off for a bit. Then another climb of 300’. Then level, then up again. And repeat!

Charred trees and stumps reveal that a fire had attacked the hillside in one spot some time ago, intensifying the blooming flowers and shrubs.

At the start of the climb I had moved well ahead of Blaze and Chum and was walking alone. Now I am 1000’ higher than the river and there is more up to go. At two miles in, I have climbed 1200 feet and snow covered peaks are visible in the not-to-far distance. It could be Colorado, but it is the Galicia region of Spain. The rain has stopped for now.

I finally reach the summit at an elevation of 3036’, a gain of almost 1500’ from Villafranca and the rio Burbia.

Time to start down! Down through a forest of large gnarled trees, as the wind increases along with the rain. I am all alone on the trail...all alone on the Camino....and loving it! No other peregrinos (pilgrims) anywhere. Blaze and Chum are likely far behind.

Eventually I come to a fork in the trail with a sign for an albergue that serves coffee heading to the right and the Camino path going the other way. Which way to go? Towards coffee or follow the Camino? I decide to wait for the others. I sit on a small boulder beneath a leafless tree in the gentle rain, getting slowly wetter and chillier. Time for a short nap as I continue to wait.

Finally they arrive. We quickly agree to prioritize coffee—the official Camino can wait. In a half mile we reach the the tiny village of Pradela and locate the Albergue Lamas where I enjoy cafe con leche and chocolate cake. The others have coffee as well. Chum has an apple pastry and Blaze an egg and cheese omelet. Everything is homemade and the tiny place has seating for only five. A true hidden gem.

After a long break we head down the mountain, through a forest of lichen covered trees, dropping 1100’ in less than two miles. In 4 and 1/2 hours we have seen only 4 other peregrinos.

We all agree this has been our best morning of the Camino. Unsurpassed in views with outstanding flowers, trees, and shrubs. And a feeling of remote after days of seeing dozens and dozens of other peregrinos. Another “WOW!” experience.