Dropping Stones in the Snow

Day 22  Rabanal to Molinaseca

Miles:  17.2

Elevation gain:  1481’

Descent:  3249’

Walking miles:  252.6

Total Camino miles:  367.1

My best vacation is your worst nightmare.

Jim Bridwell

The day began with some trepidation on our part. It was snowing and blowing as we departed our Refugio. It was forecast to be a day of snow, wind, and then rain. The temperature was in the high 20’s. We started off in full rain gear and warm clothing...would we be warm enough?

It turned  into a glorious day. We had worn plenty of clothing in spite of the conditions and were soon shedding layers. It snowed with a tailwind until we reached La Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) at 4934’, about 6 miles in. Two to three inches of snow blanketed the ground. Even partially covered in snow, things were beautiful. Spring flowers were everywhere, trees and bushes were in full bloom. The weather improved with short bursts of sunshine followed by shifting winds and cloudy skies. We passed through several small towns, some with coffee stops. At times the clouds parted and we were treated to expansive views of snow covered mountains and green hills. 

The upper reaches were full of heather and reminded me of the Coast to Coast hike in England two summers ago with our good friends Tom and Pat. At times the steep descent was rocky, muddy, and slippery. This was a day when I used trekking poles a lot. I usually do not use them—even though they help the knees—as I feel I hike much faster without them. 

The afternoon had sporadic wind, some sun, and then a surprise short but intense rain shower when we were only 10 minutes from our accommodation in Molinaseca. The best option was to stop for a drink in town to wait out the rain shower. After enjoying drinks, we continued thru the town of 800 along a very narrow street lined with wonderful old buildings. When we reached our accommodation on the far side of town, we learned that the place had suffered a “breakdown” and we were re-booked in another place back across town where we had entered.

This was one of my favorite days so far with changing scenery around every turn. And a few challenges and interesting twists. Read on!

The Iron Cross is one of the highlights of a pilgrim’s journey along the Camino de Santiago. Located close to the highest point of the Camino, it has become, as the guide book describes, a place “to reconnect with the purpose of your journey by adding a stone or other token of love and blessing to the great pile that witnesses to our collective journeying”.

Each of us placed a stone of some significance to us at the base of the iron cross atop the pile. My choice was a large worked flake of flint that I found on some past adventures in the wilds of the western US. It had a very unusual and magnificent deep red color and was a very large flake, most likely an early removed flake from a large piece of flint destined to be lovingly worked by hand into a large spear point. I like to think it became a Clovis point, used by the Clovis culture that inhabited large areas of North America about 10,000 to 13,000 years ago. Such a prized point would have been used in the group hunts for Mammoths and Mastodons. 

Blaze chose to leave a rock that was from high on Mount Everest and had traveled to North America before reaching its honored spot on this, its third continent.

Stone placing completed, we headed downhill on the snowy path. I had only gone about 100 yards when I realized that one of my Apple wireless ear buds had fallen from my ear. These ear buds are white and the ground was covered with inches of snow. I carefully checked all of my many layers of clothing, removing most while standing in the trail to be sure it had not slipped into my clothing. Nothing.  I did retrace my steps to the cross, knowing I would likely not find it in the snow. 

I had just been listening to a book on tape that had talked about all of our possessions just being things, things that are destined to eventually break, be lost, be unusable, or will be given away and that we should just enjoy things while we can. They are only possessions. So I stood again at the iron cross and thanked the ear bud for its service and returned to my walk. I was still able to listen with just one ear bud, but of course the sound was much less satisfactory.

Hours laters after covering about 8 more miles I noticed that the sound on my Audible book was going on and off every half minute or so as I walked briskly along the muddy trail. This went on for about ten minutes and I was unsure why, since this had not happened before. Eventually I noticed a slight discomfort near the waist band of my rain pants. It felt like my top layers were bunched up so I did some readjustment. I felt something trickle down my leg. Digging into the legs of my rain pants and hiking pants, I discovered the lost ear bud. Where it had hidden for those several hours is another mystery of the Camino!

Shortly before reaching Molinaseca, Blaze and I had gotten well ahead of Chum, who before that point had kept up with us all day. Blaze and I waited at the end of town huddled behind a sign in a vain attempt to avoid the rain and wind. Finally Chum appeared and he was fuming. Apparently some French pilgrims had refused to yield way on the narrow path and would not let him pass. He was not too happy when he reached us and vented to us (and not to the pilgrims). 

An unusual situation as most folks are very courteous and make way for faster hikers and for bikers ( which are few in number).

Another big mileage day tomorrow as we expect to hit 20 miles. However, it will have much less downhill than today had. We opted for a “picnic” breakfast for tomorrow so we can get an earlier start and eat on the road somewhere that we can buy coffee.