Sleep Can Wait

Day 6. Estella to Los Arcos

Miles today:  13.7

Total miles:  89.8

Elevation gain:  1126

Descent:  1057

“I want to sleep but my brain won’t stop talking to itself”

Yes, sleep can wait...just not too long! The three of us, but especially Blaze and I, have been suffering from poor sleep since a week ago when we left Denver. The pattern seems to be to sleep deeply for 3-4 hours then wake up and then lie in bed awake for a few hours and then finally return to sleep with only an hour until the alarm goes off. Four or five hours of sleep is just not enough when you are hiking about 15 miles per day! One would think that a full day of exercise and being somewhat exhausted would guarantee a good night’s rest, but that has not been the case. 

And we have tried many cures including Blaze and Chum on the red wine and me with a tincture of cerveza (beer). Nothing seemed to work. Finally the last two nights have hopefully been the turning point. Blaze and I have slept well. No explanation for either the poor sleep or the improvement, but Chum is certainly benefitting from our more pleasant moods! 

And just in time as we follow today’s relatively easy day with an 18+ mile day tomorrow, then our first Zero Day (rest day) and then a 19 mile day.

Our day began once again in a mild rain with us wearing both rain jackets and rain pants. After a two mile jaunt thru the town of Estella, we were greeted by the red wine fountain at Bodegas Irache with unlimited wine for each Pilgrim until the daily limit of 100 liters is exhausted. Keep in mind that one still has 12 more miles to walk after imbibing.

Soon we came to a fork in the path. We chose the “green route” which is the alternative route; not the standard Camino route. The alternative was more scenic, but longer with a higher elevation gain, however the path was more gradual. It proved to be a wise choice as the first few miles were on a narrow dirt path through the woods which eventually opened onto a wider path through farms fields with expansive views. We only saw 8 other hikers on the entire 7 mile alternative route whereas the standard route would have many dozens of hikers today. We also stopped in the sole town on the route, Luquin, where we enjoyed a mid morning Cafe con Leche, our standard coffee drink thus far on the Camino.

Eventually our path rejoined the standard Camino path and we soon came upon “Eduardo’s Mobile Cafe”, a food truck setup in the middle of nowhere in the farm fields, just below the  ruins of a stone building up on the hill, where we enjoyed a beer and ate our lunch.

Overall an easy walk today with very little pavement, mostly pleasant paths, muddy in some areas, another afternoon period of rain preceded and followed by sunshine. Tomorrow is our longest day yet...about 18 miles.