On the Yellow Bush Road

Day 36. Olveiroa to Cee

Miles today: 12.8

Elevation gain:  648’

Descent:  1528’

Walking miles:  441.3

Total Camino miles:  555.1

To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries – Aldous Huxley

This morning we sleep in a bit and have a late breakfast at 8 am. We are sitting in the cafe at the hotel next to a large window looking out onto the street which is also the Camino path. What looks like a light rain soon turns into a full on downpour with heavy winds. We eat slowly, discussing our options. Very few pilgrims pass by and those few who do look miserable in the horizontal rain.  By 9:15 the rains have almost stopped so we gather our backpacks and rain gear and start on our way.

The small village is quickly left behind and we cross a bridge over a small rushing stream and turn onto a dirt and gravel path. We always marvel at how crystal clear all of the streams and rivers have been in Spain.

While the rains have temporarily stopped, the winds increase. The kind of wind where you put your head down and try to keep a straight line while the wind tries to blow you off course.

Soon we are in a magical world of yellow. Everywhere around us is a type of blooming bush. The hillsides as well as the edges of the paths are covered in yellow blossoms.

The paths today are mostly unpaved with only minor road shoulder walking. At 2.2 miles we stop for coffee. This will be the only stop for coffee as this section is remote and we pass no other cafes all day. Occasionally we have light rains, but the winds persists all morning. There are a few seconds of sun, but otherwise it is full clouds that race across the sky.

The afternoon weather is less threatening and the wind dies down some. At 2 pm we get our first views of the Atlantic Ocean. We have walked and biked over 500 miles from France and it is “Sea at Last!”

We descend steeply over 1000 vertical feet into the town of Cee. Cee has a population of 7,700 and is an industrial and fishing town. Our hotel tonight is relatively large and very comfortable, located in the “A Costa da Morte” district. This means “Coast of Death” and refers to the large number of shipwrecks along this shore towards Finisterre.

Tomorrow we walk to Finisterre (Lands End). Then just one more day of walking along the coast to the town of Muxia where our Camino adventure will end.