HikeAcrossSpain

Day 24  Villafranca to Herrerías Miles today:  14.2 Elevation gain:  1895’ Descent:  1441’ Total walking miles:  287.3 Total Camino miles:  401.8 I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.    —Susan Sontag Our walk begins in rain jackets and rain pants. It is a bit warmer this morning at the start with 43 degrees. It is only 10 minutes until the rain began to fall lightly. We pass thru the old town of Villafranca and cross the Burbia River.  Immediately we turn right onto the “green route” which is the guidebook designation for a scenic route. Within feet it grows very steep, perhaps the steepest climb of the Camino thus far.  The climb is steady for 1/2 mile, ascending over 550’ vertical feet. The remote trail is lined with ferns, and flowers, and flowering shrubs. The view overlooking Villafranca below is magnificent. Then the trail levels off for a bit. Then another climb of 300’. Then level, then ...

Day 23  Molinaseca to Villafranca Miles today:  20.5 Elevation gain:  919’ Descent: 1116’ Walking miles:  273.1 Total Camino miles: 387.6 Moving speed:  2.9 mph Not all those who wander are lost    ——J R Tolkien Today was a perfect day....a perfect day for Retrospective Glorification! We began the morning quite early, opting for the “picnic” breakfast so we could get a fast start to a very long day. After eating a small plain yogurt and drinking a bottle of pineapple juice, we all pitched the rest of the unappealing food and set out walking at 7:30 am, once again in full rain gear. No coffee for this breakfast, a first for this trip! It was raining lightly and quite cold, continuing to rain on and off all morning. Our first coffee break was after 5 miles at a great cafe across from the castle in Ponferrada. We had cafe con leche and a large croissants filled with chocolate. Finding that insufficient, we all ordered eggs...

Day 22  Rabanal to Molinaseca Miles:  17.2 Elevation gain:  1481’ Descent:  3249’ Walking miles:  252.6 Total Camino miles:  367.1 My best vacation is your worst nightmare. Jim Bridwell The day began with some trepidation on our part. It was snowing and blowing as we departed our Refugio. It was forecast to be a day of snow, wind, and then rain. The temperature was in the high 20’s. We started off in full rain gear and warm clothing...would we be warm enough? It turned  into a glorious day. We had worn plenty of clothing in spite of the conditions and were soon shedding layers. It snowed with a tailwind until we reached La Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) at 4934’, about 6 miles in. Two to three inches of snow blanketed the ground. Even partially covered in snow, things were beautiful. Spring flowers were everywhere, trees and bushes were in full bloom. The weather improved with short bursts of sunshine followed by shifting...

Day 21  Astorga to Rabanal Miles: 12.8 Elevation gain:  945’ Descent:  56’ Walking miles:  235.4 Total Camino miles:  349.9 To Travel is to Live – Hans Christian Andersen Doing the Camino is a lesson in routine. Your day demands some structure and routine in order to accomplish what needs to be done, day after day. I see the Camino as the following basic steps: WALK EAT  DO LAUNDRY SLEEP  REPEAT CAMINO! The walking part is simple....you must walk each day if you plan to walk the 500+ miles from St Jean France to Santiago Spain. Some days are relatively easy, others are long walks, and many have steep climbs. Each day is similar, yet very different in many ways. Eating is a constant focus. You snack, you hike, you drink lots of water. You plan on either carrying things for lunch or you hope to find a cafe to buy lunch. Dinners are late in the day and are often the 3 course Pilgrim Menu. And you eat a l...