HikeAcrossSpain

Day 26  Triacastela to Sarria Miles today:  11.0 Elevation gain:  910’ Descent;  1639’ Walking miles:  317.7 Total Camino miles:  432.2 Live life with no excuses, travel with no regret – Oscar Wilde The day starts with breakfast at 7 and on the road by 7:40. Today we head a relatively short distance—11 miles—into Sarria where we meet Judy and Eileen. It is a chilly 39 degrees as we set out, just a couple hundred yards through the edge of town and we hit a narrow country road that soon becomes a dirt path. We are in the fog along a small rushing stream. Numerous pilgrims are behind and in front of us. The path is bordered with ferns and moss. We quickly climb 800’ vertical feet, the path is steep but not too muddy today. Soon we level off and the view is spectacular. We gaze at what looks like a huge lake...it’s is a sea of clouds in the distant valleys.. Hills appear as islands in a sea.  Soon we begin down...

Day 25  Herrerias to Triacastela via O’Cebreiro Miles today:  19.4 Elevation gain:  2951’ Descent:  2917’ Walking miles:  306.7 Total Camino miles:  421.2 Wherever you go, go with all your heart! – Confucius Concern began at breakfast time. Breakfast is not available until a starting time of 8 am, which means a late start for walking...we prefer a 7 am or 7:30 am breakfast at the latest. But we have no other option since the two attempts at a “picnic” breakfast have proven to be both lacking and unsatisfactory.  We are ready for breakfast when the door is unlocked at 8 am. But we are the only ones eating for some time. Where is everyone else? Why is no one else eager to get walking? We soon learn why.  All the other pilgrims are walking from Herrerías to O’Cebreiro today, a distance of only 6 miles BUT with an elevation gain of over 2000’. That is how the main guidebook is set up. Each day is a “stage”. Today’s stage i...

Day 24  Villafranca to Herrerías Miles today:  14.2 Elevation gain:  1895’ Descent:  1441’ Total walking miles:  287.3 Total Camino miles:  401.8 I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.    —Susan Sontag Our walk begins in rain jackets and rain pants. It is a bit warmer this morning at the start with 43 degrees. It is only 10 minutes until the rain began to fall lightly. We pass thru the old town of Villafranca and cross the Burbia River.  Immediately we turn right onto the “green route” which is the guidebook designation for a scenic route. Within feet it grows very steep, perhaps the steepest climb of the Camino thus far.  The climb is steady for 1/2 mile, ascending over 550’ vertical feet. The remote trail is lined with ferns, and flowers, and flowering shrubs. The view overlooking Villafranca below is magnificent. Then the trail levels off for a bit. Then another climb of 300’. Then level, then ...

Day 23  Molinaseca to Villafranca Miles today:  20.5 Elevation gain:  919’ Descent: 1116’ Walking miles:  273.1 Total Camino miles: 387.6 Moving speed:  2.9 mph Not all those who wander are lost    ——J R Tolkien Today was a perfect day....a perfect day for Retrospective Glorification! We began the morning quite early, opting for the “picnic” breakfast so we could get a fast start to a very long day. After eating a small plain yogurt and drinking a bottle of pineapple juice, we all pitched the rest of the unappealing food and set out walking at 7:30 am, once again in full rain gear. No coffee for this breakfast, a first for this trip! It was raining lightly and quite cold, continuing to rain on and off all morning. Our first coffee break was after 5 miles at a great cafe across from the castle in Ponferrada. We had cafe con leche and a large croissants filled with chocolate. Finding that insufficient, we all ordered eggs...